Friday, August 14, 2015
Andert Rülander: a gorgeous orange wine
I've come to the conclusion that if I wait until I've got time to write a proper post on this blog it's simply not going to happen so I'm going to try (try) to flag up a few wines we've been enjoying to kickstart it again.
First off here's an absolutely cracking orange wine from Austria where Les Caves de Pyrène has been digging around to great effect. It's made from Rülander which, according to the ever-helpful Jancis Robinson is an alternative name for Grauburgunder or Pinot Gris. The winemaker Michael Andert is registered with Demeter (so it's biodynamic). You can read more about his approach here.
According to Doug Wregg of Les Caves "the Andert barrel cellar is a no-tech affair. There is no electricity, so tasting is done by candle light. You could put the “bottling line” in your back pocket. These are not technical wines. I was very much taken with the whites."
Apart from the glorious colour of the Rülander which glows like a flame it's just delicious - full of apricot, peach (especially peach skin) and quince, a wine to gaze at as well as taste.
In terms of my 'what to expect' ratings (see right) I'd say it's AMBER, not only because of the colour but the style. Not at all scary though. It costs £19.50 from Les Caves and £23 to take away from ToastED in East Dulwich where they presumably also have it to drink in.